Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Adjustable lab power supply

I already have several lab power supplies, all of them made by myself. The latest (shown here in action) was almost perfect - two channels, 1.2 - 30V/3A - but there wasn't current limiting. That's why I was searching for suitable schematic to build. What I found is this schematic: http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/power/001/index.html.
It has adjustable output voltage from 0 to 30V and adjustable max output current from few miliamperes to 3 amperes.
As it turns out there are serious flaws in it, but in the forum in that site it was thoroughly discussed and the member audioguru proposed an improved schematic, in which all flaws were addressed. I used his schematic to build my new power supply.



This small heatsink is only for test purposes and in the final product
there will be a much bigger heatsink and maybe also a fan.

After I built it and did some testing I made two changes: first, I added 24V zener diode + resistor to stabilize supply voltage on IC1. This is especially important because when there is high load and supply voltage  drops by few volts reference voltage on pin 6 also changes significantly.
Second, I removed 10k trimmer resistor RV1 - there isn't any need for it.

Here is the final schematic:


The two trimmers are for adjusting the max output current and the max output voltage.


And some shots of the second PCB and assembled board:





 My plans are to make 2 pieces in two separate chassis and when I need dual voltage supply or voltage higher than 30V I will use both of them.
 There will be digital panel meters on the front of the chassis which I already ordered from eBay.

Update (13.03.2012) :
Finally, over a month after ordering, the two transformers are ready. They are capable of delivering 30V/4A.

The panel meters also arrived from Hong Kong.


As you can see, I have replaced 0.47 ohm/10W resistor with two 0.68ohm/10W resistors in parallel, because the former generated too much heat.
The front panel is also ready, later will post a picture. What is left to do is to make a little board with a fan controller.

Here is the link for downloading archive with project files in PDF format: LabPS.rar

The first one of the two PS is ready!
Here is puny board of the fan controller:



And there is power supply itself:




Here is the schematic of the fan controller:

The schematic may be supplied with AC or DC voltage but not both simultaneously. If the supply voltage is DC, then B1, C2 and J3 may be omitted. With different R7 value we can control the speed of the fan. Adjusting switch-on temperature is made with TR2.

And here is the link for downloading: FanControl.rar
The PCB is different from that shown on picture above, because I made some improvements and rearrangements. 
Use it on your responsibility.


Update: 17.05.2012

The second unit is almost ready. Here one shot from inside:


The fan is secured to the bottom with double sided adhesive tape.

Update: 20.05.2012

It's done! Dual adjustable laboratory power supply :)


85 comments:

  1. Hi. How can I get this circuit board?

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  2. I will put a link for downloading within a few days.

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  3. Христо, это будет замечательно! Буду ждать.

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  4. Board very nice. Thank you. And for you, if need: http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic975213.html. Power, current, thermostat and fan, current limit.
    It's worked.

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  5. Good job. Small and cute. We look forward to the scheme and the board fan control?

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  6. It does not work. Do not set a zero output and adjustable current limit. Details are intact, the board checked twice.

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  7. Double check all elements. What IC you use? I tried with TL081 and OP07 and current limit didn't work well.
    Also you may try without Q2. If it work without Q2, you may try to put it back and increase the value of R13.
    What is the voltage of the transformer?
    Also check the correct connection of power transistor.

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  8. I'm sorry. Everything is working. Just two tracks were combined. When cleaned up - the problem disappeared. Christo, thank you. Very good board. Later, if you like - I can show pictures of my power supply. And the issue. Christo, the board can do for the other diodes? For example - KBU10M. I could not find Bridge Rectifier as yours.

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  9. I am glad that everything is working. The KBU10M would be just fine, I think, with proper cooling.
    It would be interesting to see pictures of your work.

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  10. I think you can make changes to the board to set KBU10M. I have a board just because of the PDF and I can not make changes.

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    1. The rectifier I use i very common and cheap. You may also use diodes like these http://www.rectron.com/data_sheets/10a05-10a10.pdf to make a discrete rectifier, and arrange them in such way to fit the holes in board.

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  11. Hey, can you upload a full parts list?, i'm a little confused on what exactly B2 is.

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  12. B2 is 35Ampere bridge rectifier.
    Here the link to partlist: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/68795389/LabPS_partlist.txt

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    Replies
    1. Thanks a lot, that's really helpful!

      One more question, when i looked on ebay for the current and volt meters i found that the digital voltmeters were mostly rated at DC 4.2 V – 30 V, that would mean it fails to work below 4.2 volts and the ammeters were DC 7V – 30V. Now that's not much of a problem because i can always hookup a multimeter when its below that range. I was just wondering if you had any problems with the high and lower ranges.

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    2. There are two types of voltmeters - first type use input voltage for supplying itself. They cannot measure lower than their minimum supply voltage.
      The other type use separate supply voltage and can measure down to zero volts.
      I bought mine from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180670991833?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

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    3. Ah yes that's the one I was looking for. For some reason it wasn't coming up in my eBay search.

      Also is this transformer fine - Cat. MT-2086 15+15 Volts 0.666 amps 1.333 amps. I'm thinking it won't be because the amperes are way too low even though it outputs 30V if you combine the two 15V taps.

      http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MT2086&keywords=toroidal&form=KEYWORD

      Is this one better?, Cat. MT-2113 18+18 Volts 4.44 amps 8.88 amps.(same page as above but 160VA). That has two 18v taps when combines you get 36V which is a higher and the amps are higher also. The problem I'm having is finding one that steps 240V down to 30V. Most of the one's on eBay run 110V.

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    4. I think neither of them is suitable. The first have too low amperage, it will provide max 0.5A at output of power supply. The second transformer have too high voltage, after rectification there will be approximately 50VDC, which is too much to be handled by this schematic.

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    5. Maybe this one will be more suitable :
      http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MT2114&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1002#12
      The two secondary windings connected in parallel will provide 25VAC / 6.4A.
      The rectified voltage will be 34-35VDC, which I think will be sufficient.

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  13. [URL=http://radikal.ru/F/s019.radikal.ru/i607/1204/65/cd226b81c0c5.jpg.html][IMG]http://s019.radikal.ru/i607/1204/65/cd226b81c0c5t.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    [URL=http://radikal.ru/F/s49.radikal.ru/i125/1204/7d/91d498314307.jpg.html][IMG]http://s49.radikal.ru/i125/1204/7d/91d498314307t.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
    My device. Христо, thank you for board.

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  14. Thanks for all your help. I'll use that one.

    I noticed on your final photo you have a third potentiometer. Is that for fine tuning?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, it is 1kOhm linear potentiometer for fine tuning of output voltage. Connected as suggested by audioguru in the forum - in series with the other potentiometer.

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  15. Hi, do you have the project/design files; the files I can open with proteus? Are the PCB files the ones in the compressed files? They look a little bit different than the ones you used on yours.

    Thanks a lot.

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    Replies
    1. I don't use Proteus, sorry. The PDF files in the archive are the latest versions. I modified/optimized PCB, and that's why it is different from these in the pictures.

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  16. Hi there, I finally did find this thread and is exactly what I was looking to generate up to 24V lab supply. How ever, Is there possible that you generate same circuit for 0to -24V supply? Some op-amps and such need negative supply and it would be nice to build single power supply that has both positive and negative supplies.

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    Replies
    1. You may build two pieces like I did, and put them in one chassis. Also you may use one transformer with two separate secondary windings. One of the outputs would be 0..24V and the other - 0..-24V

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  17. Do you have schematics and bord files for EAGLE or similar software?

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    1. I can provide you with schematics in EAGLE, I can also provide board layout, however mine differs from the original layout in certain connectors and other parts I am using and I have not routed any traces. If you cannot get the appropriate files from the author, I can provide you mine.

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  18. zYour post includes great tips and you managed to keep it simple and understandable. Thanks for sharing.circuit board

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  19. I think that the author will not mind if you put your version of the board. I too will be glad to see another option.

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  20. Hello did anyone tried using the TLE2141 as a substitute to MC34071?

    Thanks.

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    Replies
    1. TLE2141 is suitable for this schematic, I think. When I chose which IC to use, I selected MC34071 because it was cheaper.

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  21. we need also its pcb measurements,.. was the pcb layout in the PDF format was in the actual size?? thanks,,

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    Replies
    1. Yes, the PCB layout is in actual size, so the PDF file must be printed with "100%" or "Actual size" options selected.

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  22. What other component/s that i can replace to MC34071? Beside TLE2141?

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    Replies
    1. I don't know, sorry.
      http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19066.1330 - the last two postings are about the same question.

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  23. hai...we plan to build your circuit because we failed at the first....my questions are..
    ..where i put my ammeter?
    ..can i use 24v 6amp transformer?
    ..is the voltage adjust from 0 to 30v?
    ..is there any replacement of the i.c mc34071 beside tle2141?
    ..is the over current works well? in what way?
    ..do you have any write up in this circuit or documentation how it works?
    ..do you have bigger trace in your layout because we manually layout and the trace of the circuit...pls..
    ..we are using 1n5402 3amp rectifier...is that ok?
    thank you..

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    Replies
    1. 1. You must put ammeter in series with PS. Here a simple schematic of the connection of the ammeter and voltmeter to the power supply: http://electronics-diy.com/schematics/1179/digital-volt-ampere-meter-power-supply.gif
      2. Yes, you can, but the max output voltage will be lower than 30V - maybe 26-27V.
      3. I tried with TL071 and OP07, but the current control didn't work well.
      4. Max current is adjusted with one of the potentiometers and if the load is higher, then schematic work as constant current source, maintaining adjusted level of the current.
      5. In the beginning of the article there is a link to original project, where you can find more information. The project is discussed in details also here: http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19066.0 and here: http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=7317.0
      6. In the above links you can find other PCBs which may suit your better.
      7. 1N5402 is OK, I think.

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  24. my teacher said that the ammeter panel display,put on the 10w resistor parallel with it. they call this sensing resistor..is that wrong?
    ..in the first circuit that we made, if we put a load it will drop down up to 2volts, my load is power led which the supply is 12volts.

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    Replies
    1. The connecting depends of what type of ammeter you use. Most analog ammeters have installed shunt resistor on them, so there is no need do connect additional shunt resistor.
      If ammeter is for low current, for example 1mA, then you must calculate proper value and power rating for shunt resistor. BTW, 2V drop voltage is too high.

      I think, the best solution is to get ready for use ammeter - 3A or 5A.

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  25. is your circuit have a ,short circuit protection?

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    Replies
    1. As I said, when there is higher load (and short circuit is just that) the schematic start to work like a constant curent source and limit current to previously adjusted max value.

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  26. i have a problem about my voltage adjust(potentiometer), the problem is that the voltage is not balance and not linear, my minimum voltage is 0.7v and max with 32v, but if i adjust the potentiometer 1/2 the voltage is only 1.3v, in 3/4 of my potentiometer i can adjust the voltage properly start by 3v-32v but i really wonder why the voltage is gather in the 3/4 of my potentiometer???? i use 10k pot, i already replace it 3x,, but the same thing happened., i also replaced it with 1k value, but the max voltage lower, only 7.4v,,.. can you help me sir???thank you!!

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    Replies
    1. Maybe your potentiometer is logarithmic? I use 10k linear potentiometer, as is specified in original schematic and adjustment is linear. When potentiometer is turned halfway the voltage is roughly 15V.

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  27. Replies
    1. It's nothing special - I got mine for 0.50 USD :)

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  28. very nice presentation, and the board you have posted is very functional. I finaly etched the one picmaster suggest, because I found yours later, but I have a couple of friends envy with my power supply :)

    I have a question though. from where do you take the DC voltage needed for the fan controler? My project also needs a fan but putting a second transformer seems a little bit too much for me :)

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    Replies
    1. My transformers are custom made and have second secondary winding which supply the fan controller and the ammeter. The voltmeter gets its supply voltage from main board (there is not a dedicated connector though, cables are soldered to the bottom).

      You may use 24V fan and get the supply voltage from the main board after rectifier and big capacitor. There must be a resistor in series with the fan, which value and power rating have to be calculated according to the fan current. For example if the rectified voltage is 40V and the fan is 24V/0.1A then the voltage drop on the resistor will be 40-24 = 16V. The value of the resistor will be 16V/0.1A = 160 Ohm. The power dissipation will be 16V*0.1A = 1.6W and the power rating must be 3W or greater.

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  29. thanks..can i asked you? did you try to assemble a power amplifier?

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    Replies
    1. Didn't you browse my blog? There is couple of solid state power amplifiers, numbers of Gainclones and two headphone amplifiers - all of them assembled by me.
      So, the short answer is yes :)

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  30. I have downloaded the fancontrol files but they are not scaled 1:1. What scale must I use to produce the pcb correctly?

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  31. Can I use the BD139 for the temperature sensor? Where and how should the temperature sensor be mounted?

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    1. About first question - yes, they ARE scaled 1:1, they are just very small :)

      Temperature sensor must be mounted to the heatsink of controlled devise, preferably close to the power transistor.

      PNP transistor like BD138 or BD140 is more convenient because the metal part of the body (collector) is connected to the ground and if the heatsink of controlled devise is also connected to the ground, there will be no need of electrical insulation between the transistor and the heatsink.
      If you have to use NPN transistor like BD139, it must be connected in reverse manner - the base and the collector to the pin 2 of the LM311 and emitter to the ground. And it must be mounted with some mica or silicone insulator to the heatsink

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    2. Thank you for the prompt reply. Looking at the fancontrol pcb layout I now see that it is scaled 1:1. I will need to redesign since I have purchased the socket mount LM311, not the surface mount LM311.
      I am using 3 x TIP3055 SOP93 packaging for 5A version. They are isolated from the heatsinks, so I will try the BD139 because I have some.
      New issue - I tried to follow the 100s of pages of commentary on Electronics Lab, and in the discussion about measuring current, Audioguru made a good case for measuring the voltage across the output current sensing resistor (in some circuits R7). With this in mind I ordered 2 x 0-99V digital voltmeter 3 digit displays - one for volts and one for amps, but I then realised that the volt drop across R7 varies from 0 to 1V. Is there a practical way to use the 0-99V for current?
      Regards

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    3. I doubt. Usually these voltmeters are with some microcontroller with 200mV input range and a voltage divider to allow measuring higher voltage range. Without the schematic it will be very difficult to find and replace the resistors in the voltage divider. And usually these resistor are tiny SMDs...
      My advise is - keep second voltmeter for another project and buy a proper ammeter.

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    4. Nearly complete and all looks good.
      I am using your fan circuit and I use 9Vac transformer which gives me regulated 12Vdc with no load. When I connect the 12V fan the voltage out drops to 9.5Vdc. I assume the volt drop is across R9. Can I use another value and what is the calculation?

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    5. Yes of course, you may completely remove that resistor and put an wire jumper instead. Its all depend how loud is your fan at full speed. The exact value of the R9 is determined with testing.

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    6. Just to confirm - I understand I can short circuit R7 since this controls fan speed. But I refer to R9. This cannot be short-circuited from my understanding of the circuit. Why would the voltage across the fan drop from 12V to 9.5V when fan connected?

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    7. Sorry, I was talking about R7, but wrote R9.
      R9 has nothing to do with relay voltage. Together with zener D1 they form stable voltage for the voltage dividers R1 - TR2 and R3 - sensor. R9 is adjusting according the voltage drop across R9 and Iz of the zener. For example, if we have 12V supply voltage and 7.5V zener with Iz = 10mA then voltage drop is 12 - 7.5 = 4.5V. R9 then will be 4.5/0.01 = 450 Ohm.

      Voltage drop is because of R7.

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  32. Hello, is really nice de ps, I have a simple question, to set (limit) the current?, can I put an amperimeter without load?, I know it is like a short circuit, but with the ps I have in the uni is like that. Sorry for my english. Regards

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    Replies
    1. Yes, this is the way that I use to adjust the current limit. Because I have installed ammeter, I just make a short circuit to the output terminals and adjust the current to the desired level. This procedure must be done very quickly or else there is danger of damage.

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  33. ok!, thanks very much!, I will make the ps, in a few weeks. Regards

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  34. Hello,

    can you please tell me the specification of the transformer you used in this project.
    As I can see, you have two secondary winding, first can deliver 30VAC at 4Amps, what about second?

    Regards

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    Replies
    1. The second secondary winding is 8VAC/1A and is used to power supply the fan control module and the ammeter. Additional small transformer may be used instead for this purpose.

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  35. Ok,thank you very much for the answer!

    Regards

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  36. Hi, can i use LM741 instead of MC34071 ?
    I can't fiind any MC34071 in my area.
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am not sure... Maybe you should ask in this forum: http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19066.0

      Delete
  37. hi, good day........do you have a schematic diagram of up and down counter from 0-60? if you have,can i ask the diagram...please..please....don't say no....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry, I don't have such schematic. You have to search for some BCD counters.
      Here two links that may be useful to you:
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAXS9NhBibo
      http://www.doctronics.co.uk/4511.htm

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  38. Hello, friend. I have a question, may sound stupid, but I'm really in doubt. What does the fan controller? Only provides voltage and current to the fan? Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Fan controller keeps track the temperature and switch on the fan when heatsink gets too hot. When heatsink is cooled down then the controller switch the fan off.

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  39. HI. I've noticed that your pdf of the layout is not true black and white. The "black" parts look a bit grey compared to real black. This leads to problems with my toner-transfer setup because the printer dos not use enough black when trying to do a grey-scale.

    Could you be so kind and post another pdf with the layout in true B&W?

    Kind regards Troels

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is not grey. When exported from Eagle to PDF, black areas are composed of tiny parallel black lines . When displayed on the monitor sometimes it looks like grey, but if you zoom it enough you will see that it's black.

      Delete
  40. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  41. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r490iPXKo7U

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  42. Thanks alot. i have decided on building this as a bnch top PSU
    but i want to power it from a 33V Swichmode DC supply..

    i understand the "lower part" of the circuit
    R2, C2, D2,D3 D5 C3...etc is there to produce the negative voltage rail for the opamps

    i want to substitute this. can i just use a -12v supply or what?
    i have +12 and -12 available for the opamps ?

    Thanks Alot

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You may use 33VDC for the circuit but -12V is too much for the negative rail. You may reduce it with resistor and two diodes (as it is on the schematic) or resistor and zener or even a 3-pin regulator for -3.3V
      You may not supply the opamps in schematic with +12V and -12V, because the maximum output voltage will be around 10-11V

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  43. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  44. so i suppose just populate R3 D2,D3
    and hook -12 or even -5 volt there. ?
    let the diodes regulate it. so the circuit
    functionality is unaffected ?

    /Kyndal

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, that will work. If you connect -12V then R3 must be increased to 470 ohms.

      You may also look at this article: http://diyfan.blogspot.com/2013/03/adjustable-lab-power-supply-take-two.html

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